#Lauri-PT-62; (62x17x3.25mm) This neat little classic puukko blade is only 2 3/8" long, 5/8" wide, and .130" thick. The generous tang is 4 3/8" long. $17.25.May be pared with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, or 16*24*3-SHAPED bolsters shown below.
Index
I offer knife blades, and other bits and pieces, separately for those who would like to build their own knives. These are the same high quality blades used in the knives from the various companies. They are sharpened and polished, ready to mount. Adding your own handle is a fairly simple project, and a good introduction to knife making. The result is uniquely your own, and something you can use with pride. Making a sheath is not that difficult either. The handcrafted look will enhance your historical outfit, or your regular outdoor gear.
I personally prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. In equal quality blades, I feel it is easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. (There is some difference of opinion on this.) There is no denying however, that the Scandinavian stainless steel works very well. They do a lot of salt water fishing and are rather fussy about their knives, so they've learned to make a stainless knife that works. In speaking with the folks at the various factories over there, they seemed to find my interest in carbon steel rather strange. Most of their upscale knives are done in their high quality stainless.
The metric measurements given are taken from the catalogs and are nominal. The English measurements are taken from sample pieces, and may vary somewhat depending on polish, etc.
Lauri blades are made in Kauhava Finland. Lauri does not make finished knives, but their blades are are used by Lapin Puukko, Wood Jewel, and Ahti, among others. They all have full Scandi grinds. I especially like the wide, gradually tapering tangs. This makes for a very stout knife. The carbon steel blades have the coloration of the heat treatment left on the upper sides of the blade, and are not highly polished on the bevels. They are made to be used. I'm quite impressed with the working qualities, and expect to be adding more models as well as fittings. Carbon steel blades are made from 80CrV2, stainless from X50CrMoV15.
The progressive tempered blades are some of the best available anywhere. They are heat treated so the body of the blade is a tough RC53, and the edge is a super hard RC63. The temper line is clearly visible. The heat treatment, combined with the generous width of the tangs, results in a blade that is VERY tough but holds a superior edge. The effect is similar to lamination, but avoids the extra thickness of the blade. Thinner blades slice better.
#Lauri-PT-62; (62x17x3.25mm) This neat little classic puukko blade is only 2 3/8" long, 5/8" wide, and .130" thick. The generous tang is 4 3/8" long. $17.25.
May be pared with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, or 16*24*3-SHAPED bolsters shown below.
#Lauri-PT-77; (77x20x3.25mm) This is just a bit larger at 3", 3/4" wide, and .130" thick. The generous tang is about 4 7/8" long. $18.25 Out of stock
May be pared with the 16*24*3-SHAPED, 18*28*3.25-SHAPED, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*2-SHAPED ferrule shown below. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SHAPED.
#Lauri-PT-80; (80x23/16x3.25mm) I like this one. It's about 3 1/8" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and .130" thick. It has a tapered profile I think is quite attractive, Again the tang is about 4 7/8" long. This one comes with a ricasso, the squared portion at the base of the blade. $21.75
May be pared with the 16*24*3-SQUARE, 18*28*3.25-SQUARE, 19*30*3-SQUARE bolster, or 15*2-SQUARE ferrule shown below. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SQUARE.
#Lauri-PT-95; (95x19x3.25mm) This is probably a good size for an all-around everyday knife. The blade is about 3 3/4", 3/4" wide, and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $18.50
May be pared with the 16*24*3-SHAPED, 18*28*3.25-SHAPED, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*2-SHAPED ferrule shown below. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SHAPED.
#Lauri-PT-90; (90x27x3.25mm) This is a stouter blade for skinning or heavy duty tasks. The blade is about 3 1/2" long, 1 1/16" wide, and .130" thick. The tang is about 5 1/8" long. $29.75.
May be paired with the 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster shown below.
High carbon Lauri blades are tempered to about 59 on the Rockwell scale for exceptional edge holding.
#Lauri-carving-42; (42x14x2mm), the 60 (below) was so popular I decided to add the 42. It's even smaller at about 1 5/8" long, 9/16" wide and .086" thick. It would be good as a detail carving or scrimshaw blade. $6.00
May be paired with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below.
#Lauri-carving-54-with-ricasso; (54x16/12x2mm), the 60 (below) was so popular I decided to add some smaller blades. This one is about 2 2/8" long, a bit less than 5/8" wide at the base, and .086" thick. It has a taper that I think is particularly graceful. It would be good as a carving or camping blade. $6.75
May be paired with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below. You will have to file the slot to the square shape of the blade.
#Lauri-carving-60; (60x14x2mm), a very small blade only 2 1/4" long, 9/16" wide and .086" thick. It would be good as a small neck knife, or the smaller knife in a double puukko set. $6.25
May be paired with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below.
#Lauri-carving-62-with-ricasso; (62x17x3.25), is just a bit larger, and thicker as well. The blade is about 2 3/8" long, 13/16" wide and .130" thick. $7.50
It could be used with the bolsters listed for for the blades just below, but the slot will be a bit long and it may be difficult to get a solid assembly. It would be better to start with the blank bolster for an exact fit.
#Lauri-carving-62-with-ricasso-hammered; (62x17x3.25), the same blade is available with a hand hammered finish to mimic hand forging. $14.50
Again, it's probably best to start with the blank bolster.
#Lauri-carving-75; (75x20/17x3.25mm), is a bit larger still, and has a graceful taper. The blade is about 3" long, just over 3/4" wide at the base, and.130" thick. It would be good as a neck knife, or the smaller knife in a double puukko set. $9.25
May be paired with 18*28*3-SHAPED bolster, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-75-with-ricasso; (75x20/16x3.25mm), is a bit larger, and has a graceful taper. The blade is about 3" long, just over 3/4" wide at the base, and.130" thick. It would be good as a neck knife, or the smaller knife in a double puukko set. $9.25
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-opening-78; (78x20x3.25mm), is the European version of a gut hook. Because it cuts the hide from the inside it's less likely to get clogged with fur, and cuts thicker hides more easily. $14.00
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-80; (80x23/16x3.25mm), I think the taper of this blade is particularly attractive. When used with a light weight handle it also puts a greater percentage of the mass near the center of gravity. This makes for a knife that balances well and feels lively in the hand. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $10.00
May be paired with the 18*28*3.25-SHAPED or 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster shown below.
Depending on the size of your handle, may also be paired with the 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SHAPED.
#Lauri-carving-80-with-ricasso; (80x23/16x3.25mm), I think the taper of this blade is particularly attractive. When used with a light weight handle it also puts a greater percentage of the mass near the center of gravity. This makes for a knife that balances well and feels lively in the hand. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $10.00
May be paired with the 18*28*3.25-STRAIGHT or 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.
Depending on the size of your handle, may also be paired with the 16*24*3-STRAIGHT bolster. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-STRAIGHT.
#Lauri-carving-84; (84x17/15x3.25mm), also has a slight taper. Again I think it makes the blade a bit more graceful. The blade is about 3 5/16" long, 5/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/8" long. $8.50
May be paired with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SHAPED and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SHAPED.
#Lauri-carving-84-with-ricasso; (84x17/15x3.25mm), also has a slight taper. Again I think it makes the blade a bit more graceful. The blade is about 3 5/16" long, 5/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/8" long. $8.50
May be paired with the 15*22*3-SQUARE, 16*24*3-SQUARE bolster, or 15*23*13-SQUARE ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SQUARE and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SQUARE.
#Lauri-carving-95 (95x19x3.25mm), traditional all-around puukko blade. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $8.25
May be paired with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SHAPED and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SHAPED.
#Lauri-carving-95-with-ricasso; (95x19x3.25mm), a mid-sized all-around puukko blade. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $8.50
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-95-with-ricasso-and-hammered-finish; (95x19x3.25mm), a variation of the above blade with a hammered finish to mimic hand forging. $15.75
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-95-with-ricasso-HEAVY-DUTY; (95x19x4.2mm), another variation with a thicker blade for heavy duty use. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide, and.167" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $12.50
You will have to open the slots a bit for the extra thickness, but it may be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-95-with-ricasso-HEAVY-DUTY-HAMMERED; (95x19x4.2mm), another variation with a thicker blade for heavy duty use. This time the blade is also hammered to mimic hand forging. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide, and.167" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $15.75
You will have to open the slots a bit for the extra thickness, but it may be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-105; (105x20x3.25mm), a classic puukko blade in a useful size. The blade is about 4 1/4" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $9.00
May be paired with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SHAPED and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard. If you want a more pronounced finger guard you can use #18x35x3-SHAPED.
#Lauri-carving-105 with ricasso; (105x20x3.25mm), the ricasso it the squared portion at the base of the blade. The ricasso makes it a bit easier to get a neat fit with the guard. They are fussier to grind, so they often cost a bit more. This one is about 4 1/4" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $9.00
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-125; (125x20x3.25mm); It's about 5" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $10.00
May be paired with 18*28*3-SHAPED bolster, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-125 with ricasso; (125x20x3.25mm), the ricasso is the squared portion at the base of the blade. The ricasso makes it a bit easier to get a neat fit with the guard. This one is about 5" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $10.00
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-little-leuku-72; (72x27x3.25mm), a short and stout skinning or working blade. The carbon steel blade is about 2 7/8" long, 1 1/16" wide, and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $15.25
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster, or the #18x35x3-shaped-long-slot if you want a little extra for a finger guard..
#Lauri-little-leuku-90; (90x27x3.25mm), a stout skinning or working blade. It's a bit over 3 1/2" long, 1 1/16" wide and.130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $15.50
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster, or the #18x35x3-shaped-long-slot if you want a little extra for a finger guard..
#Lauri-little-leuku-90-with ricasso; (90x27x3.25mm), a stout skinning or working blade. It's a bit over 3 1/2" long, 1 1/16" wide and.130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $15.50
May be paired with 21*32*3-SQUARE bolster, or the #18x35x3-straight-long-slot if you want to leave a bit of a finger guard..
#Lauri-little-leuku-120; (120x27x3.25mm), a small leuku, or large pukko for those who like a larger blade. It's about 4 3/4" long, just over 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $16.75
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster, or the #18x35x3-shaped-long-slot if you want a little extra for a finger guard..
#Lauri-little-leuku-120-with-ricasso; (120x27x3.25mm), a small leuku, or large pukko for those who like a larger blade. It's about 4 3/4" long, just over 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $16.75
May be paired with 21*32*3-SQUARE bolster, or the #18x35x3-straight-long-slot if you want to leave a bit of a finger guard..
#Lauri-little-leuku-145; (145x27x3.25mm), a small leuku, or large pukko for those who like a larger blade. It's about 5 3/4" long, just over 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $17.50
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster, or the #18x35x3-shaped-long-slot bolster.
#Lauri-little-leuku-145-with-ricasso; (145x27x3.25mm), a small leuku, or large pukko for those who like a larger blade. It's about 5 3/4" long, just over 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $17.50
May be paired with 21*32*3-SQUARE bolster, or the #18x35x3-square-long-slot bolster.
#Lauri-little-leuku-180; (180x27x3.25mm), a small leuku for those who like a larger blade. It's about 7" long, just over 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $21.75
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster, or the #18x35x3-shaped-long-slot bolster. .
#Lauri-Leuku-175; (175x37/39x3.25mm), The Leuku is the Scandinavian camp knife used for chopping and butchering. The blade is a bit under 7" long, 1 1/2" wide, and .132" thick. The tang is about 5". $25.00.
May be paired with 24*44*3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.
#Lauri-Leuku-210; (210x37/39x3.25mm), The Leuku is the Scandinavian camp knife used for chopping and butchering. The blade is about 8 1/4" long, 1 1/2" wide, and .130" thick. The tang is about 5". $28.75.
May be paired with 24*44*3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.
#Lauri-Leuku-240; (240x37/39x3.25mm), The Leuku is the Scandinavian camp knife used for chopping and butchering. This is a larger version, and the blade is about 9 5/8" long, 1 1/2" wide, and .130" thick. The tang is about 5". $44.00.
May be paired with 24*44*3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.
#Lauri-Leuku-240-HEAVY; (240x37/39x4.2mm), The Leuku is the Scandinavian camp knife used for chopping and butchering. This is a larger and heavier version. The blade is about 9 5/8" long, 1 1/2" wide, and .171" thick. The tang is about 5". It's something of a beast for a Scandi blade. The weight of the blade alone is 9 3/4 ounces. $55.00.
May be paired with 24*44*3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.
#Lauri-Curved, This a curved blade shaped like a farrier's knife. It could also be used as a crooked knife. The blade is about 2 1/2" long, 5/8" wide at the base, and .095" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $12.00
The blade is too thin for most of the bolsters, but you could open up the slot on the fillet bolster for a good fit.
#Lauri-carving-54-with-ricasso-stainless; (54x16/12x2mm), a very small blade only 2 1/8" long, 5/8" wide and .079" thick. This one has a rather graceful taper. It would be good as a small neck knife, or the smaller knife in a double puukko set. $11.50
I don't have a bolster for this blade, but you could open up the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below.
#Lauri-carving-60-stainless; (60x14x2mm), a very small blade only 2 1/4" long, 1/2" wide and .073" thick. It would be good as a small neck knife, or the smaller knife in a double puukko set. $9.75
May be paired with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below.
#Lauri-58-mushroom-stainless; (58x17x2mm), another small blade 2 1/4" long, 5/8" wide and .078" thick. This shape is typically used in knives for gathering mushrooms. It would also be excellent for caping knives, or for dressing smaller game. $10.75
May be paired with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below. You would have to lengthen the slot a bit.
#Lauri-opening-78-stainless; (78x20x3.25mm), is the European version of a gut hook. Because it cuts the hide from the inside it's less likely to get clogged with fur, and cuts thicker hides more easily. $19.25
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule.
#Lauri-carving-75-stainless; (75x20/17x3.25mm), a general purpose blade with a graceful tapered shape. The blade is about 3" long, 3/4" wide at the base, and.127" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $15.00.
May be paired with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SHAPED and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard.
#Lauri-carving-80-with-ricasso-stainless; (80/23/16x3.25mm), a general purpose blade with a graceful shape. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $14.75
May be paired with the 19*30*3-STRIAGHT bolster shown below.
#Lauri-carving-84-stainless; (84x17/15x3.25mm), has a slight taper, which I think makes the blade a bit more graceful. The blade is about 3 5/16" long, 5/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/8" long. $13.50
May be paired with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SHAPED and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard.
#Lauri-carving-95-stainless; (95x19x3.25mm), a classic puukko blade in stainless. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide and .129" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4" long and 1/2" wide at the base, $12.75
May be paired with 18*28*3-SHAPED bolster, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED
#Lauri-carving-95-stainless-with-ricasso; (95x19x3.25mm), a classic puukko blade in stainless. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide and .129" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4" long and 1/2" wide at the base, $12.75
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT ferrule
#Lauri-carving-105-stainless; (105x20x3.25mm), a classic puukko blade in stainless. The blade is about 4 1/4" long, 13/16" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 1/2" long, and 1/2" wide at the base. $13.50
May be paired with 18*28*3-SHAPED bolster, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*13-SHAPED
#Lauri-carving-125-stainless-with-ricasso; (125x20x3.25mm), a longer puukko blade in stainless. The blade is about 5" long, 33/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 1/2" long, and 1/2" wide at the base. $15.00
May be paired with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*13-STRAIGHT
#lauri-little-leuku-90-stainless-with-ricasso; (90*27*3.25mm), is a stout skinning or working blade in stainless. It's about 3 5/8" long, 1 1/16" wide and.137" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $21.00
May be paired with 21*32*3-SQUARE bolster, or the #18x35x3-STRAIGHT-long-slot bolster.
#lauri-little-leuku-120-stainless; (120*27*3.25mm), is a longer working blade in stainless. It's about 4 1/2" long, 1 1/16" wide and.130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $24.75
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster, or the #18x35x3-shaped-long-slot bolster. .
#lauri-leuku-175-stainless; (175*37/39*3.25mm), is a leuku, or all-arond camp knife blade in stainless. It's about 7" long, 1/2" wide, and .131" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $39.00
May be paired with 21*32*3-SQUARE bolster.
#Lauri-little-leuku-145-stainless; (145x27x3.25mm), a small leuku, or large pukko for those who like a larger blade. It's about 5 3/4" long, just over 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $22.00
May be paired with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster.
#Lauri-fillet-160; (160x20x1.3mm), a fillet blade in the more flexible Finnish tradition. The blade is about 6 1/4" long, 3/4" wide at the base, and only .041" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8". $12.75
May be paired with 16*24*3-FILLET bolster, or the 15x23x13-FILLET ferrule
#Lauri-fillet-220; (160x26x2mm), This is a big fillet blade more than 8 3/4" long, about 1" wide and .072" thick at the base. The tang is about 5 3/8". $24.50
Because of the width it will not pair well with the fillet fittings used for the Fillet-160. You will probably have to get the blank bolster and make your own slot.
These are the excellent laminated steel blades from Helle. They have an outer layer of tough steel for durability, and a hard inner core (HRC 58-59) for superior edges. The stainless Helle blades have the Helle logo etched on the revere side of the blade. The carbon steel blade have the Helle name stamped on the front side.
Please Email for quantity discounts on these blades.
The thickness may vary due to polishing.
I've since added the following blades.
#HB-600; As used in the Utvaer, this is a true full tang blade. It's done in satin polished Sandvik 12C27, not laminated. The blade portion is about 4" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .118" thick. Overall it's 8 5/8" long. The two smaller holes in the handle are 7 mm in diameter, or about .275".
#HB-36; laminated stainless steel with satin polish, as used on the Helle GT. The blade is about 4 7/8" long, 1 1/8" wide" and 126" thick. The wide blade would be useful in skinning, butchering, or for general camp chores.
#HB-42; non laminated stainless steel with mirror polish, as used on the Jegermester, 5 1/4" (1.13"w, .125"t),
May be paired with the Lauri 24x44x3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.
#HB-15; Laminated stainless steel with a satin polish, as used on the Odel. It's about 3 1/2" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and .105" thick.
#HB-80; 12C27 non-laminated stainless steel with a satin polish, as used on the Folkniven. It's about 3 1/2" long, 15/16" wide at the base, and .105" thick.
This is the traditional Norwegian Tollekniv blade shape. It's similar to the Finnish puukko, but is often a bit wider and thicker. The Tollekniv was, and is, the knife used for all things, but especially woodworking.
#HB-96; the laminated carbon blade is again about 4 3/8" (114 mm) long and 7/8" (22 mm) wide. It's about .147" thick, and comes with the black of the heat treat left on the sides for a rustic look. This is the blade used with the current version of the Viking. The base of the tang is squared off and could be used with the same bolsters as the Lauri carving blades.
#HB-102; a slightly smaller laminated carbon blade about 3 1/2" long and 13/16" (20 mm or .8") wide at the base. It's about .148" thick. Again, the black of the heat treatment is left on the sides of the blade for a rustic look. This is the blade used with the Saga Siglar. The base of the blade is not adapted to use with a bolster, although it could be used with the Lauri ferrule. This may be a fussier fit than using a bolster.
For fishermen, I've added some Helle fillet blades. Because fillet blades should be thin, these are not laminated. Because they will be used around water, they are stainless.
The #HB-115 is the same blade used in the "Steinbit". It is just over 6", thin (just .087" at the base) and flexible,
The #HB-120, as used in the "Hellefisk". It is about 5" and a little stiffer in the Norwegian style (about .090" at the base),
#HB-70 is the blade from the Helle Lapplander leuku. It's a big blade, 8 1/2" long, over 1 1/2" wide and .102" thick. It's done in polished Sandvik 12C27 stainless for
#HB-300 is the blade from the Helle Temagami. The sharpened portion is about 4" long, 1 1/16" wide and .121" thick. Including the tang, it's just 9" overall, done in satin polished laminated stainless. The rivet holes are about .20" in diameter, the thong hole is about .25" in diameter. This would make a seriously stout wilderness or utility knife.
#HB-301; The same blade is now available in laminated carbon steel.
Karesuando is well into the Sami (Lapplander) portion of Sweden, and these blades resemble the Finnish style more than the usual Swedish style. Both carbon steel and stainless steel blades are hardened to 57 HRC. They do not have any markings. These blades are very nicely ground and have stouter than average tangs for hard usage. The tangs are quite long, at about 4 1/4", but it's easy to shorten them if necessary.
Stainless steel blades:
Carbon steel blades (may have stains or spotting)
I've added two more stainless Karesuando blades. These are wider and stouter than the others. The tangs are shorter however, at about 2 3/8".
#3560; about 3 1/4" long, 15/16" wide, and .130" thick
#3561; about 3 7/8" long, 15/16" wide, and .130" thick.
For those who prefer kit of pre-matched parts, I’ve included two from Karesuando.
#3526: A kit based on the Karesuando #3549 blade, which is carbon steel, about 3 ½” long, .72” wide and .098” thick. Also included are a block of curly birch, a brass bolster, reindeer antler spacer block, leather for the sheath, a plastic liner for the sheath, a thin leather strip for the suspension thong, and sewing thread. There are instructions in English, which suggest you will also need strong glue, saw, files or rasps, abrasive paper in different grades, small clamps, electric drill (or preferably a drill press), drills, hammer, measuring tools, carving knife, punches, long nose pliers, leather needles and an awl. I would consider this an intermediate or moderately advanced level project.
Here are YouTube videos of how one man completed the knife and the sheath.
High carbon laminated steel blades; These are the famous laminated Mora blades. There are three layers. The center layer is AISI O1, hardened to 58 - 60 on the Rockwell scale. The side layers are a softer grade of steel for toughness. They will hold an edge like a straight razor, but are not brittle. In fact they bend fairly easily and should not be chosen for uses where this will be a problem. The blades vary a bit due to the polishing process, but are about .106" thick. The measurements given are taken from a sample blade and may vary a little. Mora of Sweden was formed from the former Frosts and Eriksson companies. Most blades are marked with the new Mora logo, but some have the old Frosts stamping.
High carbon non-laminated blades; non laminated blades do not have soft sides, so they can be made thinner and still retain stiffness. Thinner blades slice better. These all have the classic Mora shape with a slight clip. They are made from C100 steel, and are hardened to 58 - 60 on the Rockwell scale. The spine of the blades is left rough from the stamping process. You may want to smooth it for appearance, or square up the corners for performance on a fire rod.
Stainless steel (12C27) blades hardened to 56-58 on the Rockwell scale.
#KB-2000; I've gotten requests for the Mora 2000 survival knife blade, so here it is. The stainless blade is about 4 5/8" long, just under an inch wide, and .098" thick.
#KB-1-S; this is basic #1 size in stainless. The blade is about 3 7/8" long, 7/16" (.7") wide and .079" thick. The tang is about 3 1/8" long. These would make up into nice personal knives, or even steak knives.
The high carbon Roselli blades are forged from Krupp W75 with a carbon content of .7 - .8%, and hardened to HRC 59 - 62. They are unique among the blades I carry in that they are forged rather than ground to shape. The blades are forged to shape in dies, then finished by hand. The upper sides of the blades still have the forge scale, and the bevels are ground cleanly to the edge with little or no secondary bevel. They are very sharp and ready to work. There are no blade markings.
#R770B; The Roselli Garlic Knife blade is a tiny blade suited to scrimshaw, chip carving, engraved decoration on wooden spoon handles, and other fine work. It's just under an inch long, and .085" thick. The tang is about 1 1/8" long.
#R130B; The Roselli Grandmother is a detail carving or paring knife. It's about 2 3/16" long, 3/4" wide, and .130" thick.
#R110B; The Roselli Carpenter blade makes a great puukko for everyday carry. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 3/4" wide, and .141" thick. The tang is about 2 3/8" long.
#R160B; The Roselli Opening Knife blade is the European version of the gut hook. Because it cuts from the flesh side of the hide, it doesn't get clogged with fur. It's also handy for boning the legs, etc. The blade is about 3 1/2" long, 3/4" wide, and .117" thick. The tang is about 2 3/8" long.
#R100B; The Roselli Hunter is a hunting and skinning blade. The blade is just under 4" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .137" thick. The tang is about 2 3/4" long.
#R120B; The Roselli Grandfather is a short, wide, skinning blade or work knife. It's about 2 7/8" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .134" thick.
#R151B; The Roselli 5" Leuku is a stout wilderness blade. It's about 5 1/2" long, 1 5/16" wide, and .200" thick. It's not too unwealdy for general chores and heavy enough for light chopping. It has a steel rod welded to the tang for those who like full length tangs. If you prefer the usual Roselli short tang just cut it off.
#R150B; The Roselli Leuku is a no nonsense chopping tool. It's about 7 3/4" long, 1 3/8" wide, and .200" thick. This one has a steel rod welded to the tang for those who like full length tangs. If you prefer the usual Roselli short tang just cut it off.
Ultra High Carbon Roselli blades have a carbon content of 1.5 - 2.0%. They are hardened to HRC 64 - 66. As good as the high carbon blades are, these are said to hold an edge about twice as long. It is not practical to sharpen them on a stone, and they require a diamond plate or ceramic.
#RW231B; The Roselli Bear Claw in UHC would make a serious wood carving or detail knife. The blade is about 2 3/8" long, 3/4" wide, and .125" thick. The tang is about 2 1/4" long.
#RW210B; The Roselli Carpenter blade in UHC would be an excellent knife for Scandiavian carving, where longer blades are used. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 3/4" wide, and .120" thick. The tang is about 2 3/8" long.
#RW200B; The Roselli Hunter in UHC is a hunting and skinning blade for those who want the ultimate in edge holding. The blade is just ovrer 4" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .122" thick. The tang is about 2 3/4" long.
#RW200LB; The Roselli Special Length Hunter in UHC is the version favored in Russia when hunting big game such as moose. The blade is just over 5 5/8" long, 1 1/4" wide, and about .121" thick. The tang is about 2 3/4" long.
#RW220B; The Roselli UHC Grandfather is a blade for those folks who plan in doing a LOT of skinning. It's about 2 7/8" long, 1 3/16" wide and .121" thick.
#RW755B; The Roselli UHC Cook's knife blade is of course intended to be used in the kitchen. The blade is about 8 1/8" long, or 14 1/8" long including the tang. At the base it's 2 3/8" wide and only .061" thick. This is a slicer, not a chopper.
#RW756B; The Roselli UHC General Cooking knife blade is of course also intended to be used in the kitchen. The sharpened portion of the blade is about 8" long, 1 7/8" wide at the base, and only .054" thick. Again, this is a slicer, not a chopper. The overall length is about 13 1/8".
Fittings are not a requirement. Some very elegant knives are made with only a blade and a piece of wood. But many people feel that a bolster or guard dresses up a knife. It also lets you make an oversized hole in the handle, fill it with epoxy, then hide it with a nicely fitted bolster. This is usually quicker and easier than doing a precise fit of the wood to the base of the blade.
Not all blades work well with a bolster. The base of the needs to be flat so it can mate the surface of the bolster. Ideally the tang should be about the same width as the slot of the bolster so it stays solidly in place. If the base of the blade isn't square you may be able to file it to provide a flat surface and shoulders to anchor the bolster.
If you use a bolster or guard it should fit as closely as possible to the blade. Often I think it’s better to make your own, but these can save you some time. When selecting a fitting, look for one with an opening that is a bit smaller than the blade at the point where it will sit. You can file the opening larger for an exact fit, but you can’t file it smaller. Likewise the outer dimensions need to be large enough for the handle you are planning. Again, you can file the outside smaller, or to a more graceful shape, but it’s harder to add metal to a guard that’s too narrow.
Actually it is possible to tighten the fit of a guard that is slightly loose on the tang. I've had good results by placing the guard on a flat, polished piece of steel and striking it squarely with a fairly heavy hammer. I use a jeweler's anvil and a five pound hammer with a polished face. Of course you may have to polish out the hammer marks.
Often the tang will be thicker than the blade where the guard will sit. This is usually because the blade is polished but the tang is not. To slide the guard into place you will have to reduce the thickness of the tang to match the blade. Always file or sand the tang lengthwise, not across the width. File marks that cross the tang can weaken it.
Tangs on blades without a ricasso can be an issue as well. A ricasso is the squared portion at the base of most blades. The Karesuando blades are a good example. The square portion makes it easier to get a good fit of the bolster. Some blades are made without a ricasso. It’s a little easier to grind the blade without one. Blades that do not have a ricasso allow you to use the edge all the way to the base of the handle. Some upscale Finnish knives, like the Tommi pattern, do not use a ricasso for this reason. If the blade grind only extends part way down the tang you will have to extend it to slide the guard into place. An example of this would be Lauri Carving 80 mm. This is quite simple to do, but again, file down the length of the tang.
If you prefer to make your own guard there is a video linked from the bottom of the knife assembly page which shows how to do this.
Fittings from Lauri. Lauri makes quite a variety of fittings. I'll be adding more styles as time goes on. The ones marked "shaped" are particularly useful for those blades ground without a ricasso. (A ricasso is the square, unsharpened, portion found at the base of some blades.) The part numbers refer to the nominal width, length and thickness of the guard in millimeters. The English measurements are actual measurements taken from samples. As usual, you can click on the image for a larger image.
People seem to be getting this wrong. Order "SHAPED" if the blade does not have a ricasso. That is, if the grind continues into the tang area. Order "STRAIGHT" if the blade has a ricasso, with a squared area at the base of the blade.
I've added some "nickel silver" fittings. "nickel silver" or "German silver" is a copper alloy with nickel and often zinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance, but it contains no elemental silver. When you order please specify brass or nickel silver.
#13x18x2-SHAPED: about .513" wide, .713" high and .081" thick. The slot is about .391" long, and .080" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri 60 and KBH-2/0 (a little loose on the Mora blade). brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#15x22x3-SHAPED; about .593" wide, .874" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .529" long and .127" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for Lauri 62 and Mora #106, #120, and #122, (a little loose on the Mora blade) brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#15x22x3-STRAIGHT; about .593" wide, .874" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .516" long and .125" wide. The shorter slot works well with the carving 62 blades with the slightly narrower tang. Brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#16x24x3-SHAPED; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .570" long and .127" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri PT 95 blade without a ricasso. brass is $2.50 , nickel silver is $3.50
#16x24x3-STRAIGHT; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .550" long and .127". brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#16x24x3-FILLET; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .605" long and .063" wide. brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50.
#18x28x3-STRAIGHT; about .726" wide, 1.078" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .546" long and .128" wide. It's suitable for Lauri blades 77, 99, 105, 125 with ricasso. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#18x28x3-shaped; about .726" wide, 1.078" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .546" long and .128" wide. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#18x35x3-straight; about .696" wide, 1.39" high and .121" thick. The slot is about .563" long and .128" wide. It includes a more pronounced finger guard. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#18x35x3-straight-long-slot; as above, but with longer slots sized for the little leuku blades. Brass is $3.00, Nickel silver is $4.00
#18x35x3-shaped; about .696" wide, 1.39" high and .121" thick. The slot is about .563" long and .128" wide. It includes a more pronounced finger guard. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#18x35x3-shaped-long-slot; as above, but with longer slots sized for the little leuku blades. Brass is $3.00, nickel is $4.00
#19x30x3-STRAIGHT; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .551" long and .128" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 105 with a ricasso. brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#19x30x3-SHAPED; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .551" long and .128" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the PT-77, PT-95 or 105 without a ricasso. brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#19x30x3-blank-plate; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. This one is made without any slot or hole so so you can make your own to fit odd sized blades. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00.
#19x30x3-butt-plate; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The hole in the center is about .156" in diameter. Butt plates are used at the pommel end of the handle, with or without an end nut. A particularly neat application is to file the end of the tang to a rectangle and file the hole to match. Or you can just file the tang to match the hole. Peen the end of the tang to anchor it. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00.
#21x32x3-STRAIGHT; about .839" wide, 1.280" high and .127" thick. The slot is about .761" long and .123" wide in the upper portion. brass is $3.50, nickel silver is $4.50.
#21x32x3-SHAPED; about .839" wide, 1.280" high and .127" thick. The slot is about .761" long and .123" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Little Leuku 72 or similar blades. brass is $3.50, nickel silver is $4.50
#24X44X3-STRAIGHT; about .965" wide, 1.732" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .791" long and .133" wide Suitable for the Lauri Leuku blade. Brass is $4.00, nickel silver is $5.00
#25x39x2-BUTT-PLATE; about .996" wide, 1.527" high and .078" thick. The hole in the center is about .150" in diameter. It's slightly domed in shape. Butt plates are used at the pommel end of the handle, with or without an end nut. A particularly neat application is to file the end of the tang to a rectangle and file the hole to match. Or you can just file the tang to match the hole. Peen the end of the tang to anchor it. Brass is $4.00, nickel silver is $5.00
Ferrule 15x23x13-SHAPED; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .754" long and .123" wide on the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri 95. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Ferrule 15x23x13-STRAIGHT; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .754" long and .123" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 105. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Ferrule 15x23x13-FILLET; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .483" long and .069" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 160 fillet blade. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Butt-Cap 22x32x5; about .852" wide, 1.253" high and .211" deep. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Butt-Cap 30x46x7; about 1.158" wide, 1.793" high and .277 deep. brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
Brass guard plates from Karesuando; these are brass stampings, and may require some flattening and polishing. They are about .122" thick. If you decide to use one of these, remember to file the guard to fit the tang, not the tang to fit the guard!
#3545; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 2.5mm thick blade (.600" high and .094" wide). $5.00
#3546; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 3.2mm thick blade (.59" high and .118" wide). $5.00
#3575-2.5; a plate with some material left for a finger guard, about .709" wide and 1.37" high. The slot is about .098" (2.5mm) wide and .550" high. $5.50 Out of Stock
#3575-3.2, a plate with some material left for a finger guard, about .709" wide and 1.37" high. The slot is about .121" wide (3.2mm). $5.50 Out of Stock
#99FRAM; Stainless steel guard plate from Helle, as used with the #HB-99 blade for the Helle Harding. It's about 1.20" tall, .65" wide and .11" thick. The slot is .666" long and .12" wide. $5.00.
Brass fittings from Mora of Sweden, They are the same as used on the #277 and #311 knives. (The #311 knife and blade have been discontinued.)
#9262; blade end ferrule from the #277, about .684" tall at the base, .508" wide and .633" deep. The slot is .475" long and .107" wide. $4.
#9263; pommel end ferrule from the #277, about .682" tall, .508" wide and .633" deep. The hole is .193" wide. $4.
#9264; blade end ferrule from the #311, about .860" tall, .424" wide and .503" deep. The slot is .702" long and .129" wide. $4. Out of Stock
#9265; pommel end ferrule from the #311, about .860" tall, .424" wide and .538" deep. The hole is .228" wide. $4.
#9270; pommel nut from the #277, about .307" tall, .314" in diameter. The tapered hole is .155" at the base, and .161" at the top. The taper improves retention when the tang is peened. $2.50
Helle Lappland Ferrule; This is the ferrule used on the Helle Lappland. It's a solid casting about .93" wide, 1.56" high and .80" tall. It weighs about 2 1/4 ounces on my postal scale. The slot is .094" wide and 1.258" long. $9.50
Helle Lappland End Cap: The end cap used on the Helle Lappland. It's a but under 2" tall, 1 3/8" wide and 3/8" tall at the higher end. Note the rather odd slope, so one end is taller than the other. The hole is about .39" in diameter, so you would probably have to use the Helle H3 end nut shown below. $8.50
End nuts from Helle;
#h1; (left) a flush fit pommel nut as used on the Fjelkniv, OD's are .393" and .285", height is .280", ID is .148". $3.00
#h2; (right) a taller pommel nut as used on the Nying to provide for a keeper strap. OD's are .276" and .373", height .401", ID is .141". $3.00.
#h3; a larger flush mounted nut as used on the Helle Lappland. The OD's are .627" and .412". The inside diameter of the hole is .192", which is too large for many of the blades. It can be made to work, but the tang isn't likely to completely fill the hole without a considerable amount of peening. It will work very nicely with the Roselli leuku blades. $3.50.
Leather pieces for making sheaths; they are cowhide, about 9 1/2" long and 4 3/4" wide. The tanning is done with Oak bark, a traditional, all vegetable process. When wet, the leather becomes soft and pliable. This makes it easy to work and mold to shape. It will dry stiff and hard. After it dries to shape, you should seal it to keep out moisture. A wax sealing process is described on the sheath making page . Or you can use regular waterproofing if you want it to be less stiff. .
I currently stock the following weights:
#OAK4-5; "4-5oz", which is about .07" to .08" thick, 5" wide and 9" long, $6.00 Out of Stock
#OAK5-6; "5-6oz", which is about .08" to .09" thick, 5" wide and 9" long. $6.00 Out of Stock
If you are going to use a lot of leather, you can get it more cheaply at M. Steffan's Sons, Inc. (tel. 716 852-6771) This is probably the oldest leather goods store in the nation, founded in 1851. It's still under the same name and family. Now operated by the fifth generation, it's a great source for leather and leather working supplies. If you are going to make more than a few sheaths, you would be better off getting large pieces from Linda. Then you can fit the patterns to the leather and reduce waste. A piece of leather that will make four of the rectangular pieces shown above will usually make five or six sheaths.
Needles and thread for sewing sheaths; two needles (you need two for a saddle stitch) and two yards of strong nylon thread, choice of brown, black or white thread. (Please specify) $4.00.
Plastic inserts for sheaths: I’ve had a number of requests for the plastic inserts that many of the Scandinavian factories use in their sheaths. If I use an insert myself, I prefer to carve it out of wood. That way I get just what I want, and it seems more in keeping with the traditional nature of the Scandinavian design. However for those folks who prefer a ready made insert, I’ve added the following styles.
Plastic inserts from Karesuando; They are nicely made in two parts, with one half taking the full thickness of the blade so the edge of the knife is not on the join. The mouth is slightly funneled for easy entry, and the outside of the insert is nicely rounded. There are four styles:
#3544; a straight insert for blades up to 15/16" wide (24 mm) and 4 1/8" (105mm) long $4 Out of Stock
#3555; a straight insert for blades up to 1 3/16" wide (31 mm) and 5 3/4" (150 mm) long, $4
#3556; a curved insert for blades up to 7/8" (22 mm) wide and 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, $4
#3557; a curved insert for blades up to 11/16" (18.5 mm) wide and 3 5/8" (95 mm) long, $4
If the size of the curved insert is a better fit for your blade, and you prefer a straight insert, you can remove the curved portion.
Closed inserts from Lauri; these are made in one piece that completely inclose the blade. The walls are thinner, so they will not add as much bulk as the Karesuando inserts. The opening is slightly flared to insure entry of the blade. The metric width measurement is taken to the outside of the oval shaped opening. The spine of blades is square, so it won’t fit tightly into the oval shape. A blade with a ricasso that is nominally 20 mm wide will not fit an insert that is nominally 20 mm wide. It will work fine if you take a mill file and square up the opening a bit. Otherwise you should select an insert that is a bit wider.
There are four sizes:
#LAURI-INSERT-80x17; for blades up to about 3 1/16" (80mm) long, and 7/8" (17mm) wide. $2.00
#LAURI-INSERT-110x24; for blades up to about 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, and about 15/16" (24 mm) wide. $2.50
#LAURI-INSERT-160x20; for blades up to about 6" long (160mm), and 3/4" (20mm) wide; $2.50
While it seems as if this would be a perfect fit for the Lauri blades nominally 20 mm wide, this not the case. The opening is just 20 mm wide to the outside of the curved opening. The blades have a square spine so they don’t fit tightly into the curve. Also, there may be up to a half mm variation in the actual measurement of the blade due to grinding. The blades with nominal width of 19 mm are better fit for this insert. If you use a mill file to square up the sides of the opening it will take a blade 20 mm nicely.
#LAURI-INSERT-180X35; This one sized for the little leuku blades. It will take blades up to about 6 1/2" long, and 1 3/8" wide. Of course you can cut it down for shorter blades. $2.50.
Open inserts from Lauri; as the name implies, these do not completely enclose the blade. One side is left open to reduce bulk. Traditionally the open side is toward the back of the sheath to leave room for the stitching seam. They are quite flat, so they would be less bulky than the closed inserts. They are particularly suitable for the smaller knife in a two knife combination sheath.
#LAURI-OPEN-INSERT-100x22; for blades up to about 3 7/8" long ( up to 4" if the point is in line with the spine), and .085" wide. While the opening is nominally 22 mm wide, samples actually measured 21.5 mm., about 13/16". $1.00
#LAURI-OPEN-INSERT-110x23; for blades up to about 4" long ( up to 4 1/4" if the point is in line with the spine), and .091" (about 7/8") wide. $1.00
It’s often better to make the sheath after finishing the knife. That way you can mold it for snug fit. This does two things. You are less likely to lose the knife, and you can mold the sheath to the handle so the knife will not go too deeply into the sheath and cut the bottom. Using pre-made sheaths means you either have to be lucky enough that the handle fits tightly to prevent this, or use a liner to protect the sheath and limit the travel of the knife.
Still, you may be able to save some time with one of these pre-made sheaths.
Sheaths made by Samson Family Leather, here in America. Samson sheaths are made of heavy weight leather, about .120” thick. The seams are both glued and sewn, and made with a welt.
#SAMS-1NA is a good fit for any of the Mora Companion line. So if your knife is similar in size to the Companions, it may work fine. Unlike the others, this one is raw tooling leather, and can be wet formed to your specific knife. See the sheath making page for suggestions on doing this. The sheath is about 7” deep, and will accept blades up to about 1” wide. I’d allow about 3” of depth for the handle, so it should work for knives with a 4” blade. The sheath is sewn with a welt, glued and stitched. The belt loop is securely riveted, and will take belts up to about 2 3/4" in width.
#SAMS-1BR is the same sheath drum dyed to a rich brown color. I suspect the drum dying process will make it more difficult to soften the sheath by wetting in order to form it, but haven’t tried it.
#SAMS-7BR is a bit wider, and will take a fatter handle.
I also have some with white stitching rather then the brown shown in the image.
#SAMS-12BR is wider still. It's shown here with the Bushcraft Black. It comes with a solidly attached loop for a fire steel. The loop is a firm fit on the 5/16" diameter Mora firesteel. It would be TIGHT fit for the Light-My-Fire 3/8" diameter fire steel. The firesteel is sold separately. It's not included with the sheath.
The larger image shows the optional dangler. The dangler drops the sheath a bit over 4", and allows it to move freely for comfort when sitting. If you are backpacking, it may also allow you to use the sheath when wearing a waist band on your pack.
#SAMS-DANGLER, The dangler is also available separately. It's on a split ring (like a key ring), so it would be easy to add to any sheath with a reasonably narrow belt loop.
#SAMS-3NA is a longer sheath for knives with longer blades up to about 6". Again, this one is raw tooling leather, and can be wet formed to your specific knife. See the sheath making page for suggestions on doing this. The sheath is about 9” deep, and will accept blades up to about 1” wide. I’d allow about 3” of depth for the handle, so it should work for knives with a 6” blade. The sheath is sewn with a welt, glued and stitched. The belt loop is securely riveted, and will take belts up to about 2 3/4" in width.
#SAMS-3BR is the same sheath drum dyed to a rich brown color. I suspect the drum dying process will make it more difficult to soften the sheath by wetting in order to form it, but haven’t tried it.
#SAMS-6NA is a smaller sheath for knives with longer blades up to 3" or perhaps 3 1/2". Again, this one is raw tooling leather, and can be wet formed to your specific knife. See the sheath making page for suggestions on doing this. The sheath is about 5 1/2” deep, and will accept blades up to about 1” wide. Again, it's sewn with a welt, glued and stitched. The belt loop is securely riveted, and will take belts up to about 2 3/4" in width.
#SAMS-6BR is the same sheath drum dyed to a rich brown color. I suspect the drum dying process will make it more difficult to soften the sheath by wetting in order to form it, but haven’t tried it.
These are sheaths by River Traders for the trade style knives made by Dean Oliver, and shown elsewhere. River Trader sheaths are made by Dean's wife Midge. The leather is a bit thinner at about .098”. The belt sheaths have a loop riveted to the back that will easily take a 3" belt. They do not have a liner, so you want to be careful to avoid forcing the knife too deeply into the sheath as it stretches from use. It shouldn't be a problem unless you routinely hammer the knife into the sheath. It's simple enough for you to add a liner, but it will vary a bit depending on which knife you are using . There are several sizes. River trader sheaths are Back In Stock!
Small; #TR-SS, fits the Small French and comes with a neck thong.
Medium Neck; #TR-MNS, fits the Medium French, and Roach. It also hangs from a neck thong.
Medium Belt; #TR-MBS, Similar to the Medium Neck, but comes with a belt loop that will take belts up to 2 1/2".
The Medium is also a fairly good fit for the Mora #2/0, as well as the #106..
Large; #TR-LS, fits the larger knives except the Hudson's Bay Roach. It has a belt loop.
Hudson's Bay Roach Sheath (a bit larger then the regular "large"); #TR-HBS,
Lewis and Clark Sheath; #TR-LCS, a long and narrow sheath for the Lewis & Clark trade knife. it also fits the Roach, taking most of the knife for a period-correct fit. #TR-LCS,
These are a good fit for the Mora Classic #1.
#TR-LCS; The Lewis and Clark Trade Sheath will fit the Mora Classic #1or #2. It’s probably a better choice if you are making a more slender traditional puukko without a guard. It’s about 7 ½” overall, and will take more narrow blades about ¾” wide. The riveted belt loop will easily take belts up to 3 1/4" wide. Or it it can be hung on a thong for use as a neck knife.
The Medium Trade Sheath will fit the little Mora Classic #2/0 quite nicely. It comes in two styles. This would be a good choice for a small neck knife. The sheath is about 5 ½” deep and will take blades about 5/8” wide.
#TR-MNS; as a neck sheath
#TR-MBS; as a belt sheath
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